It is Summer in Northern Hokaido

Summer, means something different, depending on where you are, and this is not what I would call summer!

We are currently in Utoro on the north west coast of Hokkaido, just on the edge of the World Natural Heritage Park of Shiretoko.  The weather changes constantly, this morning there was thick mist obscuring the lighthouse just across the bay and then the sun came out and we had clear skies for a bit.  The maximum was 20C and the wind had a definite chill, particularly when in the shade.

As I write, looking out the window, the mist is descending again and the mountains have disappeared.  It is certainly a cold ocean, with ice-flows and snow to the waterline in winter and the smell is different to the oceans I know best.  The gulls are bigger and more raucaus, and as I write I hear them calling from the nests on the huge rock beside the harbour.  The ocean has been calm since we arrived but the size of the sea walls around the fishing harbour give an inkling of how dangerous the ocean can be.  The coast line is dramatic due to ancient volcanic up-heavels, and as a result natural hot springs abound.  

 

 

The seafood along the coast has been amazing and we are definitely getting our recommended daily dose of Omega 3.  This was dinner at a small Ryokan overlooking the wetlands outside Abishiri.  We had assorted sushimi, an oyster as big as your hand, crab legs, deep fried fish wings (which are yummy), tempura, a small snapper each, scallops, sukiyaki, rice and numerous condiments.  This maybe the best meal we have ever had, not just in Japan, but anywhere.

Today we did a tour of Shiretoko Goko (Five Lakes).  It consists of a 3km walk through the bush but as it is bear season, we had to go with a group lead by a park ranger.  Shiretoko National Park has the largest concentration of Brown Bears in Hokkaido so you are not allowed to hike by yourself.  I was pretty happy about that!  The photos show the beauty of the place and it's many moods.  Mist descended several times and then lifted to reveal a clear blue sky. 

We didn't see a bear while in the 'wild' but at the end of our walk we saw one from the safety of the elevated walkway.  We saw 2 others on the drive to the park, which I hope is not something that happens on our remaining rides!

The brown bears here are bigger than Grizzlies and the males can weigh more than 400 kg and stand at around 10 ft tall, and 5 ft at the shoulder.   You don't want to surprise one. 

A lot has happened since leaving Sapporo after our 4 day break.  We had a couple of hot days as we struggled up mountains to Furano.  It was 29C but felt much hotter due to the strength of the sun, the clear air, and the humidity.

From Furano we had a 90 km ride to Ashadake Ropewalk planned.  With an ascent of 1336m and another hot day predicted neither Eleanor, nor I, were keen on this. Then the Gods smiled on us. Keith had an issue with his front wheel and so our focus switched to finding a bike shop in Ashikawa which was a pleasant descent.  We didn't miss out on the gondala up Mt Ashadake though,

we just did it in a much more leisurely way, on the bus.  We had sunshine and crisp clear air for the day.   Mt Ashadake, is the tallest mountain in Hokkaido, and is part of the sprawling Daisetsuzan National Park, the largest national park in Japan.

We rode from Ashikawa to  Sounkyo Onsen which is on the other side of the National Park and the tunnels had bike paths on the outside, above the rivers and the forest.

From Sounkyo we rode through a spectacular valley (see photo below) before heading West to the coast. It was 3 long days of riding to reach Utoro, the gateway to Shiretoko Park, but it was worth the effort.

 

T

When we leave Utoro, on Thursday, we will have 8 rides left before a few days in Chitose to source bike boxes and pack the bikes.  I am looking forward now to coming home, but after today in the National Park I have to remind myself to stay in the moment.

Ciao and much warmth,

Sue and Keith 

That was my missive last Wednesday and today it is Sunday.  In that time we have ridden from the West coast to the East coast to Shebetsu and we had the wettest day of the trip on that ride.  We arrived at the hotel soaked to the skin, shoes sodden, and happy for the warm onsen.  On Friday we rode to Teshikaga, the skies were blue, but late afternoon thunder clouds arrived and the skies opened when we were14 km or so km from our accomodation.  We were drenched. 

Teshikaga is set in the Akan-Mashu National Park and it is a very popular tourist destination with Lake Mashu being a must see. 

The ride up to the lake is brutal so we took a taxi.  Mashu is reputed to be the world's clearest lake and the colour is called Mashu Blue. Mysteriously the water level in the lake does not change despite no rivers flowing on or out.

 

 

Mashu Blue.

 

 

 

 

This evening we are at Akan Lake and the area really reminds us of British Columbia.  There is an Ainu Village here and we are amazed at the similarity between these Native peoples and the Inuit and North American Indians.  The approaches to hunting, tool making, the belief systems: based on reverence for nature and animals, seeing them as Deities, are all familiar.  The craft work, design, and carving are detailed and intricate and there are numerous totem poles in the park on the edge of the lake.

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the ride to Lake Arkan, another day, another volcano!