It is Summer in Northern Hokaido

Summer, means something different, depending on where you are, and this is not what I would call summer!

We are currently in Utoro on the north west coast of Hokkaido, just on the edge of the World Natural Heritage Park of Shiretoko.  The weather changes constantly, this morning there was thick mist obscuring the lighthouse just across the bay and then the sun came out and we had clear skies for a bit.  The maximum was 20C and the wind had a definite chill, particularly when in the shade.

As I write, looking out the window, the mist is descending again and the mountains have disappeared.  It is certainly a cold ocean, with ice-flows and snow to the waterline in winter and the smell is different to the oceans I know best.  The gulls are bigger and more raucaus, and as I write I hear them calling from the nests on the huge rock beside the harbour.  The ocean has been calm since we arrived but the size of the sea walls around the fishing harbour give an inkling of how dangerous the ocean can be.  The coast line is dramatic due to ancient volcanic up-heavels, and as a result natural hot springs abound.  

 

 

The seafood along the coast has been amazing and we are definitely getting our recommended daily dose of Omega 3.  This was dinner at a small Ryokan overlooking the wetlands outside Abishiri.  We had assorted sushimi, an oyster as big as your hand, crab legs, deep fried fish wings (which are yummy), tempura, a small snapper each, scallops, sukiyaki, rice and numerous condiments.  This maybe the best meal we have ever had, not just in Japan, but anywhere.

Today we did a tour of Shiretoko Goko (Five Lakes).  It consists of a 3km walk through the bush but as it is bear season, we had to go with a group lead by a park ranger.  Shiretoko National Park has the largest concentration of Brown Bears in Hokkaido so you are not allowed to hike by yourself.  I was pretty happy about that!  The photos show the beauty of the place and it's many moods.  Mist descended several times and then lifted to reveal a clear blue sky. 

We didn't see a bear while in the 'wild' but at the end of our walk we saw one from the safety of the elevated walkway.  We saw 2 others on the drive to the park, which I hope is not something that happens on our remaining rides!

The brown bears here are bigger than Grizzlies and the males can weigh more than 400 kg and stand at around 10 ft tall, and 5 ft at the shoulder.   You don't want to surprise one. 

A lot has happened since leaving Sapporo after our 4 day break.  We had a couple of hot days as we struggled up mountains to Furano.  It was 29C but felt much hotter due to the strength of the sun, the clear air, and the humidity.

From Furano we had a 90 km ride to Ashadake Ropewalk planned.  With an ascent of 1336m and another hot day predicted neither Eleanor, nor I, were keen on this. Then the Gods smiled on us. Keith had an issue with his front wheel and so our focus switched to finding a bike shop in Ashikawa which was a pleasant descent.  We didn't miss out on the gondala up Mt Ashadake though,

we just did it in a much more leisurely way, on the bus.  We had sunshine and crisp clear air for the day.   Mt Ashadake, is the tallest mountain in Hokkaido, and is part of the sprawling Daisetsuzan National Park, the largest national park in Japan.

We rode from Ashikawa to  Sounkyo Onsen which is on the other side of the National Park and the tunnels had bike paths on the outside, above the rivers and the forest.

From Sounkyo we rode through a spectacular valley (see photo below) before heading West to the coast. It was 3 long days of riding to reach Utoro, the gateway to Shiretoko Park, but it was worth the effort.

 

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When we leave Utoro, on Thursday, we will have 8 rides left before a few days in Chitose to source bike boxes and pack the bikes.  I am looking forward now to coming home, but after today in the National Park I have to remind myself to stay in the moment.

Ciao and much warmth,

Sue and Keith 

That was my missive last Wednesday and today it is Sunday.  In that time we have ridden from the West coast to the East coast to Shebetsu and we had the wettest day of the trip on that ride.  We arrived at the hotel soaked to the skin, shoes sodden, and happy for the warm onsen.  On Friday we rode to Teshikaga, the skies were blue, but late afternoon thunder clouds arrived and the skies opened when we were14 km or so km from our accomodation.  We were drenched. 

Teshikaga is set in the Akan-Mashu National Park and it is a very popular tourist destination with Lake Mashu being a must see. 

The ride up to the lake is brutal so we took a taxi.  Mashu is reputed to be the world's clearest lake and the colour is called Mashu Blue. Mysteriously the water level in the lake does not change despite no rivers flowing on or out.

 

 

Mashu Blue.

 

 

 

 

This evening we are at Akan Lake and the area really reminds us of British Columbia.  There is an Ainu Village here and we are amazed at the similarity between these Native peoples and the Inuit and North American Indians.  The approaches to hunting, tool making, the belief systems: based on reverence for nature and animals, seeing them as Deities, are all familiar.  The craft work, design, and carving are detailed and intricate and there are numerous totem poles in the park on the edge of the lake.

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the ride to Lake Arkan, another day, another volcano!

Was it an 18 or 20 tunnel day?

 Was it 18 tunnels, or 20 tunnels? It doesn't matter it was a lot of tunnels.

Days come, days go, and it is hard to remember and distinguish one day from the next.  The week has disappeared into the mind's mist. Since arriving in Hokkaido most mornings have been grey and misty with only the odd days when the sun breaks through.  The highlight of the week was Lake Toya, another caldera lake in the Shikotsu-Toya National Park, and it is said to be the northernmost lake in Japan that never ices.      

There was great deal of variability in our accommodation this week.  We spent a night in a hostel, sharing a 4 bed bunk room with barely enough room to put our panniers and 'stuff'.  There was a night in the forest in a 2 bedroom villa, and a night overlooking Lake Toya in a lovely guest house with a very gracious host.  There was a modern funky hotel that had 'pods' (which we didn't select) and a night in a small coastal hotel with tatami rooms.

On the ride to our forest villa we spent time in a beautiful park outside Nanae.  It was a drizzly day but the photos don't capture that. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The next stop was at the hostel.  The mist was low when we left that morning, it was a short day, around 50k, and by the time we hit the coast the sun was out.  

 

 

Then there was the guest house overlooking Lake Toya, far from restaurants and convenience stores.  We arrived after 94km, an 800 m ascent, and and could not contemplate riding down the hill to buy food for dinner.  Luckily, our host came to the rescue, (as happens in Japan, so much hospitality) taking us to a look-out above the lake, to see some bunny rabbits (???) and then to the convenience store where we bought lots of food.  We were famished, I think our host was shocked to see the amount of food we consumed.   

The moods of Lake Toya, morning mist and full sun.

We had a rest day at Lake Toya and our host (photographed here) organized the day for us.  She arranged transport to a camping/walking area on the lake, then to a public onsen, to shop for food again and then we had a visit an ice-cream parlor, on a dairy farm, with ice-cream from Hokkaido milk.

It was a totally relaxing day: we got to see the lake, have an onsen, have farm fresh ice-cream, and best of all we didn't have to get on the bikes to do any of it.

The path around the lake was soft and gentle beneath our feet.

 The ride from Lake Toya to Niseko (the funky pod hotel) was around a Volcano and Keith took some great shots.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This particular photo makes me think of Central America.  Volcanoes and lush vegetation.

The ride to Kamoeni was along the coast in very blustery wind but we arrived to find an Italian restaurant and our hotel just across the road from each other.  Both establishments were run by a cool guy who was a jazz guitarist, who rode a Harley and has recorded on Blue Note.  We didn't get his name!!

 

 

Waiting for a well earned lunch, and waiting to check in to our accommodation.

 

 

 

Kamoenai is on the opposite coast to Otaru.  The ride to Otaru began with an 11km ride from the ocean to the top of the mountain.  The grade was OK, around 5-8%, but it was a long slog, and as we got to the top of the climb one of the tunnels maxed out with a 12% grade.  Needless to say I walked quite a bit of that tunnel.

A couple of tunnel shots, the long hard ones are impossible to capture.  I just take the road and hold my nerve until the tunnel is done!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the ride to Otaru our official tunnel counters, ie Eleanor and Pierre, estimate we rode between 18 and 20 tunnels.  With many of them quite long, between 1.5 to 3.7kms in length, we estimate that the ride included at least 15-18 Kms riding thru tunnels.  Most of them were not as nice as the one above, but luckily the long tunnels have cycle paths.  The noise however is incredible and disorientating.  The closer we got to the coast the longer the tunnels became and the louder the noise as the traffic increased.  The constant roar of traffic is stressful despite knowing that we are safely separated from the traffic.

One thing that really stands out in Japan is the food you can buy at supermarkets and convenience stores.  The convenience stores (read 7 Eleven) and the supermarkets have fantastic pre-prepared meals and salads and this has been extremely helpful when our accommodation is far from restaurants.  We stock up on the way and have a really good meal.  It is constantly surprising how good a 7/11 meal can be and we are getting quite savvy with our selections.  Last night, after another 80k ride we went to the supermarket below and bought, a fresh salad/coleslaw, sushi, roasted eggplant, friend chicken, veggie tempura and for desert, the best Hokkaido yoghurt, all for around 4,000 y, or $40 (Aus).

Our meal in Kamoenai was the best meal of the trip so far.  Dinner and breakfast were included in the price of our accommodation and it was a full Japanese meal including, sukiyaki, fresh sushimi, oysters, grilled fish, crab, miso, and.... I can't remember what else.

We are in Otaru on a rest day before an easy ride into Sapporo for a 4 day break, staying in the Grand Park Hotel, on the 18th floor, and the view and room are great.  

 

 

Lots of love,

S & K xx

 

 

Hurrah Honshu, Hello Hokkaido

 Another Saturday rolls around.  They come around very quickly and today is a rest day, our first day on Hokkaido, in the city of Hakodate.

It has been another memorable week.  Last blog I mentioned we were in Yurihonjo which is a town on the coast.  It drizzled most of the day but with a Typhoon down south our ride along the coast from Yurihonjo, to Akita, was very wet and very blustery. 

We had been hoping for sunshine and flat seas, but that was not to be.  It was head down all the way, no enjoying the relatively flat ride.  That is cycle touring.

The park overlooking the city is situated on the site of what was once Akita Castle.  It was constructed in 1604, and destroyed during the Meiji Restoration, and all that remains are some foundation and a reconstructed guard tower that provides a great view of the city. These parks are like the lungs of the cities and are popular with locals as a good place to exercise.

This particular park is  popular with runners and the uphill is not for the faint-hearted.  It was delightful to watch a group of fit young boys train.  Running up and down, following their coach's directives, yet still smiling and greeting us with Kon'nichiwa, and the odd hello.

From Akita we had two easy days on the flat, before heading to Lake Towada, the biggest caldera in Japan. 

 

The lake is 51 km in circumference and  is nestled high in the mountains. The ride was glorious, but challenging (as my expression shows), with a long climb of 16km.  The GPS promised an average 5% climb but in reality there were numerous stretches above 10%. 

 

I walked quite a lot that day and found the descent challenging as well.  On the final few kms to the hotel, on the foreshore of the lake, my legs felt like lead.

After an onsen it was all worth it, as this was the view.  We had a day's rest, which was sorely needed to give the legs time to recover before tackling the next ascent, over the mountains to Aomori, our last stop in Honshu.  It was an 82k day and it was spectacular.  The first 30k was a gentle downhill run, with 11 km through the Oriase gorge.  The Oirase Keiryu (mountain stream - (sourced from the lake)) winds its way to the Pacific Ocean and riding through it is indescribable. It is best to let the pictures do the talking!

Once again, the term Forest Bathing comes to mind.  We were bathed in the soft greenery and soothed by the water rushing downhill.  Even if riding here doesn't sound feasible I would highly recommend this area as a place to explore on foot.  I felt a little sad for the people on tourist buses, seeing it in momentary grabs, through the windows of the bus.

 It seems that pleasure and pain are never too far apart.  Next came  another climb, 14 km.  I wasn't looking forward to it but the grades of between 5%-8% were kinder than the ride we had done into Lake Towada and most of the climb was in shade, through the forest which helped.  The most challenging aspect of the day for me was the 30k descent into Aomori.  At the end of the descent my hands ached from clutching the brakes.  Downhills are not my forte, as many of you know, and the 4 of us pondered if we had ever done a longer descent.

On Friday 9th June we said farewell to Honshu and took the ferry from Aomori to Hokkiado.  It was a rainy day with gale force winds in Hakodate when the ferry berthed but luckily the ride to our comfortable hotel was only 6km, more or less. 

A new experience awaits, discovering Hokkaido.  Our first dinner was Chicken and Vegetable Curry Soup, which I have read is a staple in Hokkaido. It was delicious, and I am looking forward to trying many more of these curries/soups over the next few weeks.

Hakodate is a popular tourist destination on the water and it was the first port in Japans to open for foreign trade in the mid 1800s.  There seems to have been a lot of western influence with many of the early buildings more western looking that we have come across previously.  The photos below are of the red-brick warehouses, once used for trade but now a tourist attraction full of stores etc. and the 2nd photo is the reconstructed Town Hall which looks extremely European.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After a couple of days exploring this new city we head off again tomorrow.  Hope we don't come across any bears!!

Lots of love,

Sue and Keith xx

To Tunnel or Not to Tunnel?

It has been a a time of hills, and more hills, and of time of learning to negotiating tunnels.  Tunnels are a blessing, as they save a lot of climbing, but they have taken some coming to terms with. To tunnel, or not to tunnel?  In reality there is no option, I have to gird my loins and head into the gloom.  

The first stop in the hills was at Nikko where we spent 2 days.  Nikko is a World Heritage/Ramsar site "famed for Toshigo, the Shinto Shrine  established in 1617 as a lavish memorial for Tokugawa Ieysu", the founding Shogun of the Edo Period. It is also a place of great natural beauty and National Parks.

 

The ride to Nikko was hard, it drizzled all day, it was our first day into the mountains, and there were no tunnels.  Close to the end of the day we had an 10 km, 800m ascent.  It was tough and except for a short section at over 12% I rode most of it.  To say I was pleased with my riding, is an understatement.  Then, there was one short sharp climb to the hotel and by the time we climbed off the bikes it was 5pm.

From Nikko it was another 80+ day to Mianamiaizu, our initiation into tunnels. They came thick and fast and the learning curve was steep.  Then on to Kitakata which we expected to be an easy day, it was only 68K.   But, a puncture, due to rim problems, put paid to that and it was after 4 when we rolled in.  However, we are discovering that an onsen soothes all.

Then, another 85k day to Kaminoyama.  The GPS showed 2000M+ of ascent but at the end of the day, with tunnels taking the peaks away, it came down to 600 M of climbing.  It was strenuous day, with road blockages, and re-routing. There were 6 tunnels, one of which was over 3km long, which seems much longer than that when you are in the tunnel.  The tunnels are usually well lit, but with the noise of trucks, cars and motorcycles bouncing off the walls, confidence is quickly shaken and you soon feel disorientated.  Where is that vehicle coming from, the sonic boom leaves you unsure if it is coming from behind or ahead?

To keep calm I chant to myself:  "just this moment, look ahead, stay on your line, claim the lane, keep peddling, breathe, breathe, breathe."

 

 

The weather on the way to Kaminoyama was warm, and by the time we got in I was done.  The rest day was a 2 onsen day, with no sight seeing, just a trip to 7/11 for coffee and lunch stuff. 

If you have never had an Onsen then you are missing out.  I love them, and so does my body after a day of climbing.  First a full body scrub, scouring every inch, then a long rinse so there is not a speck of soap on you, and finally you sink into the hot communal bath.  On tiring days what keeps me going? 'There is an onsen waiting"

The other reward, beside the onsens, is the stunning beauty.  The mountain passes and river valleys are sensational, covered in thick verdant forests

and on the flat there are rice paddies and market gardens.  The soil is volcanic and fertile and there are always flower patches.  Purple iris in particular abound, the national color for azaleas is pink, and there are even large peonies growing beside the road.

That brings you up todate.  Today we rode from Sakata on the coast to Yuriohongo and tomorrows ride promises to be VERY wet, thanks to Typhoon Mawar in Okinawa sending rain and humidity our way.

Before leaving Sakata a visit to the bike shop was mandatory as K had destroyed a tyre on the ride there.  The hotel manager showed up to make sure it all went smoothly and the warmth and pleasure in our endeavour was evident.  The Japanese people are invariable kind and courteous, so delightful.  It is this quality that makes cycling on busy roads less onerous.

Hope this finds you all well.

Lots of love,

Sue and Keith

 

Tokyo - a cyclists delight

 We have been in Japan for just over a week and have slipped into the time warp that is travel.  So much to observe that time seems to slow down and a week feels much longer than normal.

On arrival we stayed at an AirBnB in Chiba prefecture, not too far from Narita airport.  The perfect place to put the bikes together.  We were in the midst of market gardens and forests, less than 60 kms from Tokyo and it was rural and green.  This surprised Pierre and Eleanor who had the common misconception that with a city of 14 million people not far away green spaces would be few and far between.  This is one of the big surprises when you first come to Japan, the cities are dense but the countryside is lightly populated and market gardens, paddy fields, and wooded areas abound. 

Right behind the AirBnB was this wonderful bamboo forest, bamboo bathing, is soothing on the soul.

After the bikes were assembled we rode to Narita-San - the Sinsho-ji Buddhist temple about 20kms from our accommodation.  It is an amazing place and has set a very high bar for the temples we come across in the future.  It was established in 940 and is a very different tradition to the Buddhism we follow.  Esoteric Buddhism is full of rituals and belief, very different to our protracted experience in the Theravada tradition we have followed for years. The most enchanting thing about the temple was the forest/garden behind it.

The 60k ride into Tokyo went smoothly, the traffic flowed and we merged in easily.  Then P & E had a puncture on their rear tyre.  Two days on the road and two punctures.  Keith had one on the way back from Narita Temple and then this one.  Not an auspicious beginning, perhaps we should have asked for a blessing at the temple?

In Toyko we stayed in Asasuka, the original capital of the Edo era and the main attraction is the Sensoji Temple.  We have learned that Temples are Buddhist and Shrines are Shinto.  A funny fact our cycling guide on the tour of Tokyo Bay told us is that when the government did a survey on religious affiliation the numbers came in Shinto 65%, Buddhist 67% and Christians 2%, a total of 134%.  How? you might ask.

Shinto worship centers around asking the gods for blessings on events such as holidays, new homes, new jobs, etc..etc.  A prayer, and small offering is made for protection and good luck.  Buddhism, on the other hand ushers one into the next life and the desire here is for a good re-birth.  So, Shinto one day, Buddhist the next.  

 

 

As it happened, on the weekend there was a festival at the Temple, the first since Covid.  It was a joyous occasion and the streets and lane-ways were packed as shrines were paraded, carried on shoulders, to the accompaniment of the banging of drums, chanting and much laughter.
 

 

 

Shrines of all sizes were carried by groups of men and women.  Kids were part of it all too, playing the drums and carrying smaller shrines. 

 

 

 

 

 

A big surprise has been just how easy it is to cycle around Tokyo.  A cyclist is treated as a pedestrian?  Bikes can go on the road or the footpath and the traffic accommodates cyclists with no stress or difficulty at all.  Traffic travel at a moderate pace, the road is smooth, there is never a sense of being squeezed and we flew around, one moment on the road, along side the traffic, and then jumping onto the footpath if the road slows down.  We did a cycling tour of Tokyo Bay which honed our skills. 

 Keith took this photo of me and Pierre and Eleanor on the tandem.  It was Sunday morning and the traffic was light.  The tandem is an object of fascination and eyes turn to follow it.  We rode all over the place on Sunday.  We planned to visit 6 gardens but one thing lead to another and by 3pm we decided after 3 stops and lunch at 7/11 it was time to head back to the hotel.  The weather has been warm and a little humid so a shower and a rest before dinner was appealing.  When we got back to Asasuka the festival was still underway.  I imagine there were a lot of very tired people going to work today after a weekend of celebration.

Today we rode north to Koga and made it to the hotel just before the rain began.  The forecast said rain at 3pm, and light rain began close to 3.  It was the first real ride of our trip.  We rode 74 kms along the 3 Rivers Bike Path. It was easy riding though a bit sticky and humid

Tomorrow we ride to Nikko, a National Park and World Heritage site that includes the Toshogu Shrine and a Ramsar Site.  It is an 84 km ride with 1 1235 meter ascent.  We will have 2 nights there to allow us a little time to explore.

 

A shot taken on our Tokyo Bay Cycling Tour.

Lots of love until next time.

Sue and Keith xxx