West to East

 Vienna - definitely a stately city. with lots to see and do.  It is a very bike friendly city and very bike safe!

Keeping the citizens safe

Central Vienna - it is a very spacious city - makes other places feel claustrophobic

We took a bicycle tour of the city which allowed us to get orientated and to learn a little about the Austro-Hungarian Empire of the Hapsburgs which had such an influence on Europe. In fact they controlled so much of Europe that when the Opera House was built in Budapest Franz Joseph gave approval only on the condition that it was smaller than the Vienna Opera House.


It was raining as we left Vienna and our first foray into Eastern Europe was grey and gloomy which we thought fitting.  Our major thoughts as a result of visiting Slovakia was the obvious economic stagnation that took place under the Soviets - while the rest of Europe rebuilt and enjoyed the economic good times after the war the soviet countries really got left behind and this is obvious in the basic infrastructure that we take for granted.

Just off the main square in Bratislava

a bit further up the road

 waiting for coffee - overlooking Bratislava

To be fair - there is development and this is a brand new development of apartments and shopping centres in Brataslava beside The Danube

In Hungary we cycled through the flood plains of the Danube which is the breadbasket of the area and while the quality of the bike paths has deteriorated quite signficantly we really love this place.  The villages are small and relatively prosperous and we rode through fields of sunflowers and corn.

 Golf club in rural Hungary - thought this could be the design for RFGC's new club house!!

 A quite village just over the border from Slovakia

 This was the first place we stayed in Hungary - broke the bank - 30 Euros/ night

 A tiny village - roads were broken asphalt with pot-holes to be feared, or were mud and puddles

 Estergom in Hungary - the view from the Slovakian side of the river

Estergom is one of the oldest cities in Hungary, first settled in the stone age,  occupied by the Romans, the Magyars moved in the the 10th Century, it was then invaded by the Mongols in the 11th C, taken by the Tartarss in the 13thC, and invaded by the Turks in the 16th C.    It's been described as "Hungary's Rome" and the Basillica there is truly breathtaking - and until we rolled in we didn't even know it existed!!  It was one of those special places you come across when travelling that make you realize how wonderful and varied the world is...

The view from our dinner table just outside Budapest

We were in Budapest for 4 nights and we love it.  It has a very laid back bohemian feel and is packed with history - from the Celts, the Romans, the Tartars through to the Hapsburgs, then to the Soviets.  So much has happened in this city and this country, it is teeming with atmosphere and it has re-invirgorated our travel lust - feels like travel of yore, when we have no real idea what we will come across next.

Budapest really comes into its own at night - as you can see!

A view of the Buda side - the river runs through the middle and this gives a special feel.

From the the Buda side, looking down on Pest - from the palace - this is the chain bridge - a well known landmark

A view of the Parliament Buildings on the Pest side - from Fishermas Bastion

An art installation in the lake close to Heros monument - we took this with Holly in mind

A string orchestra in St Stevens church - really enjoyed this - sound great - a beautiful setting

On the first days ride south of Budapest - we rode for almost 2 hours beside the Danube.  There were weekend places on both sides of the river and this was one of the many private fishing platforms that line the riverbanks

Still beside the river.  I would love to have a weekender here - it was such a laid back place - really loved as well from all appearances

A ferry crossing on our ride toward the border of Croatia.  We arrived at the road 3 km from the ferry only to be confronted with No Bicycle signs - what to do - ignore them - we were quite perplexed as there was no other way to access the ferry and the otherside of the river which was where we wanted to go!  This wouldn't happen in Germany!

We left the Danube just before the border with Croatia and are now cycling to a Hungarian playground - Balaton Lake.  The roads we are travelling on are rural and quiet, it continues to be a great ride.

In general it seems that at the end of every day there is something new and interesting to talk about and learn from.  And every new day there seems to be something interesting to look forward to.  It seems to just keep coming......

  We will take a train to Budapest on 19th of August and then we will take the train to Prague on the 21st.  We are waiting for a gypsy to tell us if Sean and Les will be in Prague to, it is hard to know as Mr Wain and Ms Rowlands are vaciliating (how strange).  We fly home on the 26th..  Not long really, which is both good and bad.  Home - it is always nice to have a home to go to!

Time for an Update - Donaueschingen to the outskirts of Vienna

The last post was from Donaueschingen, the source of this great river the Danube.  It started as a tiny stream, that slowly grew and grew.

The merging of two streams that come together to become the Donau or the Danube just outside Donaueschingen

One of the many solar power installations we came across in Germany.  Keith calculated that there are 1.5 mgawatts being generated from this barn.  Sometimes a small power station only generates this much power.  Solar Energy is huge in Germany, we saw so many installations, even small villages where about 70% of the roofs were completely covered with solar panels.  It was quite inspiring to see such development and it makes you wonder why is Aust so far behind when we have so much sun??

Part of the first days ride from Donaueschingen, some of the most beautiful riding of the trip (I know, I keep saying that).

The beginnings of the limestone area that characterized the 2nd days ride on the still small Danube

A castle on a hilly outcrop of the limestone area which the upper part of the Danube flows through.

Wide open spaces between the limestone hills in the upper reaches of the Danube.

A resting place on the Danube along the way

A bikers lunch at the Abbey.  I am sitting on the thick wall overlooking the valley at one of the many Abbeys and Cloisters we came across through the ride.  There have been so many Abbeys, Cloisters and Cathedrals throughout the ride and it is really interesting to contemplate the joint power of religion and royalty throughout history, particularly in Europe.  The majesty of these places must have been really over-whelming to people in the middle ages who lived in very basic conditions and then came to these churches which are completely magnificent.

This is the source of the Blau River, on of the many rivers that feed into the Danube.  This was a beautiful clear pool.  This is an undeground spring which surfaces at the rate of 139 ltrs/ sec.  The water is amazingly clear.

I can't recall the name of this town....  so many towns, so many castles, so many churches, but I do recall it was a warm Sunday evening and it was fun to watch people float past riding the current.  The river, as you can see has grown!

Weltenburg Abbey - confessions while you wait...  Kinda like meals on wheels.....  Danube in the background....

Regensburg ...once was the second largest city in Germany.  This is the oldest bridge on the Danube - built from 1135 - 1145.  Regensburg is a beautiful old city with lots of character and a great place to wander through narrow alleys and amazing buildings

Passau - the last major stop on the German part of the Danube.  Three rivers merge here, the Inns, the Ilz and the Danube.  From here on the Danube is truly a mighty force and it is quite awesome.

Another view of Passau

more of Passau

The river 

Early kms of the ride in Austria

More of the Danube in Austria

Another rest spoton the Danube in Austria - there were so many beautiful places to sit and contemplate the river and of course life!

Morning coffee in Linz, Austria - the time to eat cake varies, sometimes the morning, sometimes the afternoon, sometimes both morning and afternoon.

This is for Peppa and Katy - a beautiful caterpillar enjoying the foliage beside the Danube

The Abbey in Mertz.  An amazing place.  This was the view from our dining table and the conversation took a very Keith turn.  He asked me - how do they paint the gutters and down pipes - not to mention do all the rest of the maintenance required on a place like this?  Had I thought of that?  What do you think?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Donnaueschingen - The descent of the Donau (Danube) begins

 

Hi all,  It has been just one month since we left Amsterdam and 1555 kms later we have become river junkies.  We rode the misty Mosel, the busy Rhine and the beautiful Neckar River from Mannehiem to its source, Schwenningen.  We then rode the 15 kms to the source of the Danube

Each river had its own magic but the Neckar was truly incredible.  Word association with the word Neckar takes me to Nectar, to honey, to sunshine, to greenery, to peace, to beauty and as we followed the river from where it joined the Rhine, to the small stream it becomes at it source, the beauty of the area just kept us spellbound.  Each day K said "I think that was the best day yet".  I hope the photos do it some justice.  On the way we met some really interesting people and have become enamored of the German country people.  They are very engaging, jovial, helpful and kind.  So many people here do bicyle trips for their holidays that everyone thinks that we are one of them.  They come up to us and engage on the flimsiest of excuses simply because the want to express the mutual enjoyment of the bike trip, scenery, or share their experiences, and on life in general...we have been very impressed and feel very at home here.

A typical view of the Mosel River.  We had quite a bit of rain/drizzle but it didn't deter from our enjoyment of this lazy laid back river

 Keith beside the Mosel with a Castle in the background.  It got to the stage when we hit the Rhine that it seemed like, another 30 minutes, another castle.  Keith postulated that was a 30 minute castle rate on the Rhine......

 This statue of Kaiser Whillem (I think?? ) dominates the confluence of the Rhine and Mosel Rivers in Koblenz.

 Resting along the Rhine, a very busy river with barges (though none in the picture!!)

 Cycling down the Rhine, in particular, we came across numerous cyclists with trailers in which they were transporting their best friend.  A new take on taking the dog out for exercise.

 A view over the Rhine from our balcony.  We arrived at this hotel wet to the skin and the manager very kindly put all our drenched clothes and shoes in the boiler room where we put warm dry shoes and clothes on to start again the next day.  The weather pattern seemed to be consistent down the Mosel and the Rhine.  Sunshine in the early morning, clouds building, rain early and mid afternoon then sunshine in the evening.  The good thing about getting drenched is it makes you appreciate a warm dry room.

Riding along the rivers we are privledged to see the allotments.  Garden plots that the citizens tend and nuture.  On the weekends the whole family is there, kids playing and running free while Mum and Dad get their hands in the earth.  Most plots have small shacks for tools, tables and chairs etc - a mini camping spot.

Each afternoon, as our energy flags we stop for coffee and cake - gives us the power for the final hour or sos ride. As you can see the cakes in Germany do provide plenty of energy for bikers.  This photo was taken between Mannehiem and Heidelberg along the Neckar River.

 Overlooking Heidelberg - a great small city, full of history and good vibes.

 Stuttgart - The Mercedes Benz Museum - I love the comparison between this super modern achitecture and the traditional German village (see below)

 Market day in Tubingen - an historic village/town on the Neckar

The beginning of the weekend summer festival in Rottenberg (yes Rottenberg) where we spent two nights enjoying the long evenings.

The last few days in the Neckar Valley getting closer to the source, wide quiet roads, distant hills and fields of grain.

 A town along the Neckar.

 Getting close to the source, a covered bridge on the Neckar, very reminiscent of Wisconsin and the film Bridges of Madison County.

 On the ride into Schwinnegen and the Neckar veiwed from the bike path.  This is getting quite close to the river source.